There is a fold 1.75" down from the top that creates the lower part of the mullet that hangs and creates the light barrier. The mullet's dimensions were as follows: 22 3/8 x 13 1/4.
Fix it felix install#
Since I didn't use an arcade monitor my measurements were different than the originals and it was easy for me to measure for the monitor bezel, install it then measure and cut my "Ninty Mullet". I didn't get any pictures of the bezel and mullet before I installed them. Or as Phetishboy over at KLOV calls it a Ninty Mullet. I also cut out and installed the matte board that hangs behind the monitor bezel. This included installing my power strip, installing my Bezel Art Retainer, and cutting and installing my monitor bezel. That weekend I was able to start getting all the small stuff that needed to be done buttoned up. Someone may want you dead but its not me. If you use a smaller gauge wire you run the chance of creating a bottle neck for the electricity. Note: Always use spare wire from your power strip to create your jumpers. I was nervous when I put together my first one but for this build it was a whole lot easier.
Fix it felix how to#
I wanted to thank PL1 for showing me how to put together this set up when I put together my weecade. And as the following pictures show you it is easy enough to wire up. When working on this setup always remember that BLACK=LIVE, WHITE=NEUTRAL, GREEN=GROUND.
The Rocker Switch also requires a 10A fuse. For those who don't have a Meijer close by the power supply can be found here. The rocker switch can be found here and the I found the power supply I used at Meijer.
Fix it felix free#
Last Monday I had some free time at night so I decided to take some time and wire up my power supply to my rocker switch which will be on the outside of the cab to get power to all the components. I in no way can guarantee or warrant your application of the following how-to. This post is not in anyway a certified way to wire your arcade cab. I have already ran a wire wheel on the back and was in the process of filling the low spots also.ĭisclaimer: I am not a licensed electrician. I also did a quick test to see how well the coin buttons work and it's about as easy as putting a coin in the slot. It takes a little bit longer to dry but it is already mixed and it sands away really well. In between all this I was hitting the low spots on my coin door with Bondo's Glazing and Spot Putty. I was going to leave it on but once I got my cardboard bezel cut out the monitor bezel forced the cardboard bezel up and it looked awkward. I was also able to get the bezel off of the monitor. Not only can it not get lost due to size and color but it did a pretty good job of holding down my t-molding. After going back and forth with my wife to no avail where she put the hot glue gun I went to Home Depot and got a nice Dewalt one.
Not only was it like this at the top but all the way around. The right side t-molding went in without a hitch.īut the left hand side(the side I filled in earlier in my build) gave me the most trouble. Pretty good run for a router in my opinion. What do you expect from something that is 25+ years old. I'm starting to think my router is on it's way out. Even though I thought I had fixed my channels for my tmolding I was wrong. Last weekend was one of those weekends where I thought I could what I wanted to get done in two hours but the cab had other ideas.
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